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TF78 ar TX68 plus?


Martynas P

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Sveiki,

 

noriu atsinaujinti savo TX36. Puikus kombainas, bet jau viršijo visas savo galimybių ribas... Galvojau CX arba TX68(plus), bet kviečiai iššalo, kainos nukrito, tai lieka TX. LT kolkas TX68 nematau, tai pasidairiau Anglijoj ir užtikau TF78 electra. Valandų mažiau nei TX, kaina ir mažesnė nei TX, kas su juo negerai?? Ko klausiau, tai sako viskas gerai, našus kombainas. Anglai rašo, kad šiaudus sumala, tai jiem presuot negerai.

Dėl to man bėdos nėra, tegu tik mala... Bet kaip tas TF dirba drėgnomis sąlygomis? Kaip jam seksis su pvz su sėkliniais dobilais? Gal kas bandėt?

 

Martynas

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Pastudijavus kulimo sistema, tai TF kazkas tokio kaip Claas Commander. Jokiu kratikliu ar isilginio rotoriaus, stovi tik daug kulimo bugnu, tai realiai susidaro daug judanciu ir susidevinciu detaliu, tokiu kaip guoliai, asys. Plius pakliuves akmuo gali pridaryti daug zalos. Vienas is minusu manau, kad siaudai nera ispurenami, kaip kratukuose, tad gali buti didesni grudu nuostoliai per gala. 

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Commandore berods yra 8 būgnai ir visi jie vienodi kaip kad pirmas standartinis kūlymo būgnas. TF visai kita sistema, ten pirmi trys būgnai lygiai tokie patys kaip ir TX68 esantys trys būgnai, o jau toliau už jų, kur TX kratikliai, TF vietoj jų eina skersas rotorius „Twin Flow“ (nuo to ir pavadinimas TF)

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  • po 2 mėnesių...

Commandore berods yra 8 būgnai ir visi jie vienodi kaip kad pirmas standartinis kūlymo būgnas. TF visai kita sistema, ten pirmi trys būgnai lygiai tokie patys kaip ir TX68 esantys trys būgnai, o jau toliau už jų, kur TX kratikliai, TF vietoj jų eina skersas rotorius „Twin Flow“ (nuo to ir pavadinimas TF)

5sezonus atkuliau su tf46 (senesniu modeliu nei TF78 bet kulimo sistema ta pati), ir nieko blogo negaliu pasakyt, pigus ir nasus kombainas, o to rotoriaus tikrai nera ten ko bijot., vienintelis minusas gal del smulkintuvo, siaudus nevienodai paskleidzia tie du smulkintuvai

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Prieš 10 valandų, koukuozas pranešimas:

Sveiki ,

Gal galetumete pasakyti koks mazdaug nasumas tx68 plius kombaino ir kokios pagrindines problemos ir kur atkreipti demesi perkant .  Aciu

Kur nusižiūrėjęs?

Jei su anglų kalba nesusipykęs tai pasiskaitinėk:

TX 66 and 68 have the same electrical system except the 68 has some additional components to make the 24 volt starter work with the 12 volt system.
The TX68 has an Iveco engine which I prefer to the ford engine in the 66

The tx66 has lighter final drives also smaller bin in some cases.

Other than that they are the same.

Something inside the chopper drum moves and throws it out of balance
but they can be rebalanced. I did my own when it went way out.

Run the machine and check the chopper. There should be very little
added vibration felt in the rear sheet metal when the chopper is turned on.

I would basically check everything like I was getting it ready for a job.

Starting at the front and going around counter clock ways (down right side)

Check feeder house chain for half links. If still present the chain has a lot of wear left.

Check bearings in front drum on feeder house chain by prying up and down on drum with a prybar and watching the bearing area. There are
grease hoses that grease these bearings that get ripped off and the grease
goes nowhere useful causing quick bearing death.

Check reverser on feeder housing to see if it still works. One guy hold switch and other see if the feeder chain reverses (only works with header switch off)

Check all belts as you pass them.

Pop open stone trap and inner door to see if cylinder bars are straight.

Check where the cylinder meets the center drive shaft for cracks where the shaft goes through the hubs by the gib keys.

See if they have removed the metal cover plates between the rasp bars
and replaced them with high inertia bars. With the cover plates on there is
not enough room for the dirt and debris to get out of the cylinder and it
becomes unbalanced all the time with is very annoying and probably bad
for the machinery. The high inertia bars have a larger opening which allows more dirt in but it also allows it to get out on its own.

Check final drives for oil seepage.

Open up the electronics door and see if there has been water in there
which can cause corrosion of the circuit boards if the door seal is not good and the drain in the bottom is not plugged with dirt.

Open little inpection doors on each side of cylinder and see look across
to see how wore the cylinder bars are.

Grab the big drive shivs for the cylinder and try to see if they wiggle
in and out there should be zero play. (pull on front push on back and vise versa)

There are grease hoses that go behind the drive shivs for the cylinder
drive pulleys that come out to a grease bank at about head level. Make sure they are still hooked up.

The big chain sprocket up above the cylinder drive is for the unloading
auger. You should be able to turn this with 1 finger even when folded up
if the unloading auger is in proper condition.

Check fuel tank at front where it meets the swing open side cover for a
hole that can happen if the side cover hinge gets out of adjustment.

Check chopper knives for wear. They are expensive to replace.

Check plate to the rear bottom of the discharge area of the chopper looking in the back with the tail folded up. It is a wear item. Also the
deflectors in the tail board for cracks and missing bits.

Get under the back and pull up and down on each walker end to make sure there is no movement relative to the crankshafts in the bearing
areas. Also look at the bearing area at each end of the crankshafts
where the are mounted to the sides of the machine.
Also in this area make sure the wires for the grain loss monitor sensors
are still hooked up.

Check for oil leaks around the motors on the mud hog rear axle.

Check all the little rubber bushings that suspend the sieves. Particularly
the ones on the ends of each "pittman' arm that drives them. They are
a bit hard to see on the sieve end but you can see them. They are the
first to go. These are on both sides of the combine.

With the combine running and the straw chopper clutch disengaged
there will be a slight winning coming from the straw chopper electric
clutch but not a loud howling. If it is loud the 2 inner bearings have
dried out and need changed.

Check the spokes for cracks in the fan. If there are any cracks the fan will
soon destroy itself. Also towards the rear of the fan there are air deflectors that need to be crack free and unbent.

Under the cab is a steel structural tube that goes from left to right.
A wire bundle travels through this tube from the electrical box to the
left side. Find this wire and undo it at the electrical box. Pull it out on the
left side and check for rodent damage. That seems to be the favorite spot
for them. They build their nest inside this tube and chew up this wire.
Which causes all kinds of goofy problems. Watch you do not loose the
little oring that is in the connector that seals the water out.

With the machine running listen at the hydraulic valve stack. There should
not be a loud hissing sound. If there is then the oil will overheat
when warm out due to a malfunctioning

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Prieš 4 valandas, Zilvis55 pranešimas:

 

Kur nusižiūrėjęs?

Jei su anglų kalba nesusipykęs tai pasiskaitinėk:

TX 66 and 68 have the same electrical system except the 68 has some additional components to make the 24 volt starter work with the 12 volt system.
The TX68 has an Iveco engine which I prefer to the ford engine in the 66

The tx66 has lighter final drives also smaller bin in some cases.

Other than that they are the same.

Something inside the chopper drum moves and throws it out of balance
but they can be rebalanced. I did my own when it went way out.

Run the machine and check the chopper. There should be very little
added vibration felt in the rear sheet metal when the chopper is turned on.

I would basically check everything like I was getting it ready for a job.

Starting at the front and going around counter clock ways (down right side)

Check feeder house chain for half links. If still present the chain has a lot of wear left.

Check bearings in front drum on feeder house chain by prying up and down on drum with a prybar and watching the bearing area. There are
grease hoses that grease these bearings that get ripped off and the grease
goes nowhere useful causing quick bearing death.

Check reverser on feeder housing to see if it still works. One guy hold switch and other see if the feeder chain reverses (only works with header switch off)

Check all belts as you pass them.

Pop open stone trap and inner door to see if cylinder bars are straight.

Check where the cylinder meets the center drive shaft for cracks where the shaft goes through the hubs by the gib keys.

See if they have removed the metal cover plates between the rasp bars
and replaced them with high inertia bars. With the cover plates on there is
not enough room for the dirt and debris to get out of the cylinder and it
becomes unbalanced all the time with is very annoying and probably bad
for the machinery. The high inertia bars have a larger opening which allows more dirt in but it also allows it to get out on its own.

Check final drives for oil seepage.

Open up the electronics door and see if there has been water in there
which can cause corrosion of the circuit boards if the door seal is not good and the drain in the bottom is not plugged with dirt.

Open little inpection doors on each side of cylinder and see look across
to see how wore the cylinder bars are.

Grab the big drive shivs for the cylinder and try to see if they wiggle
in and out there should be zero play. (pull on front push on back and vise versa)

There are grease hoses that go behind the drive shivs for the cylinder
drive pulleys that come out to a grease bank at about head level. Make sure they are still hooked up.

The big chain sprocket up above the cylinder drive is for the unloading
auger. You should be able to turn this with 1 finger even when folded up
if the unloading auger is in proper condition.

Check fuel tank at front where it meets the swing open side cover for a
hole that can happen if the side cover hinge gets out of adjustment.

Check chopper knives for wear. They are expensive to replace.

Check plate to the rear bottom of the discharge area of the chopper looking in the back with the tail folded up. It is a wear item. Also the
deflectors in the tail board for cracks and missing bits.

Get under the back and pull up and down on each walker end to make sure there is no movement relative to the crankshafts in the bearing
areas. Also look at the bearing area at each end of the crankshafts
where the are mounted to the sides of the machine.
Also in this area make sure the wires for the grain loss monitor sensors
are still hooked up.

Check for oil leaks around the motors on the mud hog rear axle.

Check all the little rubber bushings that suspend the sieves. Particularly
the ones on the ends of each "pittman' arm that drives them. They are
a bit hard to see on the sieve end but you can see them. They are the
first to go. These are on both sides of the combine.

With the combine running and the straw chopper clutch disengaged
there will be a slight winning coming from the straw chopper electric
clutch but not a loud howling. If it is loud the 2 inner bearings have
dried out and need changed.

Check the spokes for cracks in the fan. If there are any cracks the fan will
soon destroy itself. Also towards the rear of the fan there are air deflectors that need to be crack free and unbent.

Under the cab is a steel structural tube that goes from left to right.
A wire bundle travels through this tube from the electrical box to the
left side. Find this wire and undo it at the electrical box. Pull it out on the
left side and check for rodent damage. That seems to be the favorite spot
for them. They build their nest inside this tube and chew up this wire.
Which causes all kinds of goofy problems. Watch you do not loose the
little oring that is in the connector that seals the water out.

With the machine running listen at the hydraulic valve stack. There should
not be a loud hissing sound. If there is then the oil will overheat
when warm out due to a malfunctioning

Labai aciu .  Viska supratau.  Smulkiai aprasyta i ka atkreipti demesi.  Kombainas prancuzijoje. Ir kiek maciau tai kombainui daug problemu sutvarkyta kaip smulkintuvo pakeitimas  ir  elektrines movos  perdarymas . Idomu ar tokiam kombainui pilnai dar galima gauti daliu kazkokiu specifiniu.

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prieš 45 minutes , koukuozas pranešimas:

Labai aciu .  Viska supratau.  Smulkiai aprasyta i ka atkreipti demesi.  Kombainas prancuzijoje. Ir kiek maciau tai kombainui daug problemu sutvarkyta kaip smulkintuvo pakeitimas  ir  elektrines movos  perdarymas . Idomu ar tokiam kombainui pilnai dar galima gauti daliu kazkokiu specifiniu.

10sezonų atidirbęs pas mane. Kolkas nebuvo problemų su dalim.

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prieš 50 minutes , Zilvis55 pranešimas:

10sezonų atidirbęs pas mane. Kolkas nebuvo problemų su dalim.

Taip kombainas rimtai padarytas   ir  radau  atrodo gana gerai islaikyta varianta   .  Atrodo labai priziuretas bet apie 3000 bugno valandu ir 3600 variklio. Ar tokiam kombainui tokios valandos jau nerima keliancios ?  7.30 pjaunamoji. 30 pinigu praso europietisku

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prieš 20 minutes , koukuozas pranešimas:

Taip kombainas rimtai padarytas   ir  radau  atrodo gana gerai islaikyta varianta   .  Atrodo labai priziuretas bet apie 3000 bugno valandu ir 3600 variklio. Ar tokiam kombainui tokios valandos jau nerima keliancios ?  7.30 pjaunamoji. 30 pinigu praso europietisku

Pasidomėk kiek parvezimas. Platus jis 

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  • po 1 mėnesio...
On 2022-12-19 at 14:46, Eduardas pranešimas:

Gal teko kam keisti jam smulkintuvo dižą dvieilį nuo variklio? Ar yra koks "triukas" ar teks imti šoninę 

Nieko nereikia imti. Atsileidi itempejus dirzo atsuki soninius varstus,pasiemi 30-40 cm ilgio m10? (nesu 100%)berods varsta suki i tam skirta skyle ir atsitraukia visas kozikas. Jis ant laikiklio su kuriuo pasitraukia. 

Pasidariau tarpa kad eitu prakisti dirza naują ir viskas. Po to su kitu ilgu varstu prisitrauki kozika atgal. As saugumo delei buvau virsuje pasidares atrama kad nenugriutu kozikas. Nes neaisku gali vistiem kas nutrukti. Ir del savo saugumo. 

Siaip paprasta labai. Gudriai padaryta. Tik atrode sudetingai. Sake kiti 2dd darbo o as vienas pasidariau per 2 val. 

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Labai priklauso nuo to kas su juo dirbs. Pažįstu bent porą rimtų kombainuirų kurie puikiai dirbo ir buvo labai patenkinti TFais bet jie juos susistygavo, domėjosi pasidarė kaip jiems reikia ir kombainas uždainavo. 

Ne visi taip sugeba, tokiu atveju TX kur kas paprasčiau. 

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